VALLE DE GUADALUPE, BAJA, MEXICO
Women’s Golf Journal, Fall 2017
Discovering La Ruta del Vino in Baja Norte’s Valle de Guadalupe
Located in the northern Baja peninsula, less than a two-hour drive from San Diego, Valle de Guadalupe is a burgeoning wine region that is quickly gaining international attention for its beautiful vineyards, chic hotels and world-class meals. Though the vines were first planted in the 18th century (making them older than Napa), travelers didn’t take notice until the early-2000s, and the wave of chefs, winemakers and designers that followed has resulted in over 100 wineries, producing 90% of Mexico’s wine, and a beautiful coastal valley that is finally being recognized the world over.
Here is our guide to the best in wine, food and accommodation in the Valle proving that there is no better time to visit.
Where to Sip
Built in 2008 from stone mined on the property, Las Nubes is a perfect introduction to a wine tasting experience in the Valle. Offering a large terrace with sweeping views, you can enjoy charcuterie while sipping their easy-to-drink wines. The nebbiolo is a favorite, as is the 2011 Seleccion de Barricas.
Lechuza Vineyard recently garnered serious attention when it’s chardonnay was added to the wine list of The French Laundry in Napa marking a huge triumph for the still-maturing valley and proving that it can compete with the best wine regions in the world.
Run by the Bordeaux-trained winemaker Hugo D’Acosta, Casa de Piedra is built as a traditional stonehouse, but uses the most modern wine production techniques available. A family-run operation with everything meticulously done by hand, the Vino de Piedra has received critical acclaim for its velvety finish and “groundbreaking” technique.
Where to Eat
Tijuana-bred chef Javier Plascencia’s is probably the best-known chef in the Baja Norte region and Finca Altozano is his rustic alfresco restaurant set in a vineyard in the heart of the Valle. The focus is on local ingredients, grilled in the outdoor kitchen, demonstrating the creative and delicious cuisine of Baja.
The culinary movement in the Valle began in 2001 when Jair Tellez, who once worked for Daniel Boulud, opened Laja. Set in a farmhouse, Tellez’s Baja Med-style cuisine blends an obvious Mediterranean influence with local seafood and produce grown in the restaurant’s own garden. Laja embraces the offerings of the region in a heightened way that still holds up as some of the best in the valley.
The most notable restaurant in the Valle is Corazon de Tierra, which made it to No. 39 on San Pellegrino’s list of Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants. Diego Hernandez’s modern Mexican fare is cutting edge, yet rooted in Mexico traditions, and is the hardest reservation to get in the Valle so make sure to plan ahead. Considering that Hernandez recently opened Verlaine in Los Angeles, his popularity only seems to be growing.
One of the most enjoyable settings for lunch is at Deckman’s en el Mogor opened by Michelin-starred chef Drew Deckman. Sitting on the Mogor Badan winery, the restaurant is completely outside with hay bales framing the dining space and the food is cooked on outdoor grills with Deckman at the helm. The setting is idyllic among the vineyards and the upscale food is exquisite, even more so when contrasted with the rustic and casual setting.
Where to Stay
Opened in 2012, Encuentro Guadalupe has 20 sustainably-built modern bungalows dotted on a rocky hillside above the onsite winery and restaurant. The striking design was one of the first architectural draws that brought the chic-set to the Valle, and the property is a must while in the valley both for its unique design, and large terrace from which you can enjoy the panoramic views.
A great option at the beginning of the Valle, if you want to stay closer to Ensenada, is Cuatro Cuatros which features fourteen stylish glamping tents complete with air-conditioning, Wi-Fi and open air showers. Set among vineyards and olive groves, Cuatro Cuatros is relaxed, fresh and modern and its cliffside lounge has unbeatable sunset views over the ocean.
Burma is developing into a 200-acre eco-luxury resort complete with a pool, spa, winery, and event space brought to you by a Mexico City developer, a sought-after local architect and Chef Deckman. The recently opened restaurant, Fauna, is run by David Castro, who spent several years at Eleven Madison Park and Blue Hill at Stone Barns.
Final ProTip: Baja now has uberValle, an Uber service that provides private drivers while you tour Valle de Guadalupe. Now there truly is nada stopping you from enjoying the Valle.